So what's wrong with that? |
just kidding! |
Finecast has a lot of things going for it, but first, I'll go with the downsides: 1. It has some bubbles... sometimes. 2. It is a little warped... sometimes.
1. The bubbles are really not a problem. a little greenstuff and they're gone. If you use it even a tiny bit of the stuff to repose models or fill in gaps, filling in bubbles is absolutely no problem.
2. The warping isn't a problem either. Forge World stuff has it as well and it only takes a dip in warm water to fix.
Now, the positives: 1. It's light. 2. It's easy to work with. 3. It has crisp detail.
1. If a model is light, it is easy to transport, it doesn't topple over and this means that dynamic poses are easier to get, and more viable. This can only be a good thing, can't it? personally I think that this is great, not only for how handy it is, but also, because the quality of miniatures is going up all of the time.
Would this pose be possible in metal? |
Imagine trying this conversion on a metal model! |
Look at the sharp details on that model |
But I digress, this was meant as more as a conversation starter. If you have anything to add please post a comment. Or better yet, if you have a clear, concise argument against Finecast I'd love to hear it.
I have to say (grudgingly) that the more recent finecast offerings I've gotten my hands on have been far better than they were when it was first rolled out. I picked up the Ranger special character for the Eldar army I've been working on and it was virtually devoid of defects.
ReplyDeleteThe resin formula they use is still a little too bendy in my opinion, it doesn't quiiiiite straighten out and hold the corrected position under hot water/hot air re-bending like the FW resin does, but I'm slowly coming around to liking it for the occasional character model.
That said, I still prefer plastic or metal overall, but that's mostly because I'm a cranky old fart of a gamer. Hah!
Don't get me wrong, I prefer plastic too, but I feel that Finecast is easier than resin. But only being in the hobby under 5 years, I have no reason other than practicality for liking Finecast. I've been told that older gamers have an affection for metal but I have no such affections!
ReplyDeleteOops! Dumb mistake! I meant that finecast is easier than metal not resin!! I swear, I stop functioning after 10:30 at night!
ReplyDeleteOh, for sure - when it comes to conversion potential (and to be fair crispness of detail), metal is definitely the worst of the three. While I do like the heft a metal model provides, I don't bemoan metal being phased out honestly - the technology behind plastic models these days is lightyears ahead of what it used to be, and that means tons of conversion possibilities and better models overall!
ReplyDeleteAmen to that!
ReplyDeleteI'll take your bait, 17yearoldhobbyist.
ReplyDeleteMetal doesn't have bubbles. It has flash which you cut away to your hearts desire. Far easier to destroy errors then create what you can't see.
Warping is an issue with paint. Sure that Eldar Howling Banshee or that Space Marine Captain sword is bent. Once you start correcting after its painted, paint starts peeling off like finish of a 57 Mustang.
Completely agree Cancercast is light. I'm with Mordian7th of being a "cranky old fart of a gamer." Being olde will never happen to me.
Kudos to you for round two, cancercast is extremely easy to work with. Was able to easily remove Coteaz hourglass for my Master of the Forge because of cancercast.
Politely disagree with cancercast being crisp. Metal is just as crisp if not more so because of lack of bubbles. I believe it boils down to the colour of the material one's working with.
I definitely appreciate your conversation starter which easily pulled me in. Quick question. I know this is your blog, post and sandbox. Why does CON only get two points while PRO has three?
Keep up the excellent work, beag brĂ thair.
Sorry about only two con. Couldn't come up with a "totally" separate point from the other two. However I could have lumped them both into "imperfections" so it evens out. I personally correct warping before paint. Once done once it usually holds. And metal can sometimes be less crisp. I'd rather guaranteed crispness (is that a word?) with imperfections I can fix than take a risk that some details won't be as clear. I respect your opinion though (see the pic I've added above!)
ReplyDeleteBtw, I like the "cancercast". I've net heard that one before
ReplyDelete